Archives: Podcasts

Jerry Benedetto really missed Chicago when he moved to Portland for his wife’s job. But more than anything he missed the thin-and-crispy pizza that is a hallmark of his hometown. That passion and longing led to a Covid-fueled journey through flour, sauce, sausage and giardiniera that has led to a regular pop-up, and eventually, a pizza place. The story behind Jerry’s Pizza is certainly inspiring for anyone who has ever dreamed of going into pizza full-time.

Justin Smillie has worked for some of New York City’s top chefs, including Jonathan Waxman. He’s currently running the kitchen at Il Buco Alimentari in NoHo, where practically everything is made in-house. But the unique part of their pizza program is they par-bake the crusts, which allow for carryout orders to customize and do the finishing bakes at home.

Like a lot of people, Derek Reiff realized if you’re going to make pizza for pick-ups, Detroit fares better than Neapolitan. Thus, a pandemic pivot from wood fired to rectangular pans…and a quirky, sometimes on, sometimes off again pizza project in Seattle, catering to the whims of its owner. Best to check his Instagram (@myfrienddereks) before you commit dinner plans.

After more than four years, the team from Modernist Cuisine outside of Seattle has produced an impressive body of work on all things pizza. Modernist Pizza is three volumes, plus a recipe manual, containing history, science and pizza intel from around the globe here (even if the Chicago chapter left me a little cold). It’s the ultimate pizza compendium ever compiled and at more than 1,700 pages, you’ll have years of research at your fingertips.

Shardell Dues has worked for some of the best pizza makers in Portland, Oregon, but she’s also spent time studying butchery – a skill few of her peers has. The result is Red Sauce Pizza, a fantastic little pizzeria in the charming Beaumont neighborhood.

Scott Rivera has always longed for the Brooklyn pizzas of his childhood, even when he was growing up in New Mexico. His passion got the best of him, as he finally took the plunge in Portland, Oregon, where his wife’s job took both of them. Scottie’s Pizza Parlor is an homage to the great pizzas of NYC, and not only does he make a terrific slice, he also offers some hard-to-find grandma style slices – a rarity in the Pacific Northwest.

 

Sarah Minnick knew she had to tackle bread making if she was ever going to improve her pizza crust. The quest for a better dough took her down a long path, and for the past 12 years, Lovely’s Fifty Fifty has been one of the most well-regarded pizzerias – not just in the Pacific Northwest, but anywhere in the country. Sarah talks about her inspiration, her process, and how she decided to stop burning wood and made the transition to an electric oven.

Nykolas Sulkiwskyj’s grandfather, Louie Tourtrois spent time at Buddy’s, the founder of Detroit style pizza. He trained with the original owners there. But once he left, he started up pizza menus at Shield’s bar, and eventually settled with his namesake in Hazel Park, about 20 minutes NE of downtown Detroit. The restaurant hasn’t changed a bit since it opened in the mid-70s. Today, Nykolas makes each pie as if it’s his first: making sure the “red tops” are consistent and the dough proofs long enough. We talked about the family history, and how he maintains consistency in a competitive market.

 

Marie Guerra Easterby’s father, Gus, is widely known as the father of Detroit style pizza. But when he left Buddy’s in 1953, to open the Cloverleaf Bar & Restaurant, he brought the recipe with him, and the battle for bragging rights began. Today, Easterby and her brother run the bar and restaurant in Eastpoint, where they still lay claim to the original recipe, even if they sometimes take liberties with the pepperoni placement.

 

There are several new books about pizza coming out – the Modernist Pizza series, most notably (and we’ll have a separate show on that) – but Steve’s latest work about Chicago history is also a must-have guide for any visitor. Meanwhile, Dan Richer (Razza, Jersey City, NJ) is about to launch his cookbook on Nov. 9. Steve talks Chicago tavern thin vs. deep-dish vs. stuffed, then he talks with Dan about how far down the rabbit hole he’s gone on things like sauce matrices, calipers and cheese options.