What do you do when a vacant space in the same strip mall near your restaurant becomes available, and there’s a pizza oven already there? If you’re the team behind Muss & Turner’s, you turn it into a pizzeria, naturally. In 2005, Muss & Turner’s took on the sandwich, trying to expand and improve upon a well known menu item. Smyrna, Georgia was a pretty sleepy suburb of Atlanta back then. Fast forward a dozen plus years, and now the Atlanta Braves’ stadium is nearby, with a number of new restaurants in the area. The pizza coming from MTH in a suburban mall is way better than it probably needs to be.
The three guys behind the company – Todd Mussman, Ryan Turner, Chris Hall – have become known for creating the Giving Kitchen, an organization that provides emergency assistance to restaurant workers through financial assistance and community resources.
John Sundstrom has been one of Seattle’s most respected chefs for nearly two decades. At Lark, he uses his knowledge and skill to create seasonal dishes, working with local farmers. But a few years ago, he decided to get into pizza, and the learning curve was steep. During the pandemic, business accelerated, and having Southpaw located directly across the street from a college campus has put him in the unique position of creating pizzas that appeal to both students as well as diners accustomed to his more creative approach to cooking.
Jerry Benedetto really missed Chicago when he moved to Portland for his wife’s job. But more than anything he missed the thin-and-crispy pizza that is a hallmark of his hometown. That passion and longing led to a Covid-fueled journey through flour, sauce, sausage and giardiniera that has led to a regular pop-up, and eventually, a pizza place. The story behind Jerry’s Pizza is certainly inspiring for anyone who has ever dreamed of going into pizza full-time.
Justin Smillie has worked for some of New York City’s top chefs, including Jonathan Waxman. He’s currently running the kitchen at Il Buco Alimentari in NoHo, where practically everything is made in-house. But the unique part of their pizza program is they par-bake the crusts, which allow for carryout orders to customize and do the finishing bakes at home.
Like a lot of people, Derek Reiff realized if you’re going to make pizza for pick-ups, Detroit fares better than Neapolitan. Thus, a pandemic pivot from wood fired to rectangular pans…and a quirky, sometimes on, sometimes off again pizza project in Seattle, catering to the whims of its owner. Best to check his Instagram (@myfrienddereks) before you commit dinner plans.
After more than four years, the team from Modernist Cuisine outside of Seattle has produced an impressive body of work on all things pizza. Modernist Pizza is three volumes, plus a recipe manual, containing history, science and pizza intel from around the globe here (even if the Chicago chapter left me a little cold). It’s the ultimate pizza compendium ever compiled and at more than 1,700 pages, you’ll have years of research at your fingertips.
Shardell Dues has worked for some of the best pizza makers in Portland, Oregon, but she’s also spent time studying butchery – a skill few of her peers has. The result is Red Sauce Pizza, a fantastic little pizzeria in the charming Beaumont neighborhood.
Scott Rivera has always longed for the Brooklyn pizzas of his childhood, even when he was growing up in New Mexico. His passion got the best of him, as he finally took the plunge in Portland, Oregon, where his wife’s job took both of them. Scottie’s Pizza Parlor is an homage to the great pizzas of NYC, and not only does he make a terrific slice, he also offers some hard-to-find grandma style slices – a rarity in the Pacific Northwest.
Sarah Minnick knew she had to tackle bread making if she was ever going to improve her pizza crust. The quest for a better dough took her down a long path, and for the past 12 years, Lovely’s Fifty Fifty has been one of the most well-regarded pizzerias – not just in the Pacific Northwest, but anywhere in the country. Sarah talks about her inspiration, her process, and how she decided to stop burning wood and made the transition to an electric oven.
Nykolas Sulkiwskyj’s grandfather, Louie Tourtrois spent time at Buddy’s, the founder of Detroit style pizza. He trained with the original owners there. But once he left, he started up pizza menus at Shield’s bar, and eventually settled with his namesake in Hazel Park, about 20 minutes NE of downtown Detroit. The restaurant hasn’t changed a bit since it opened in the mid-70s. Today, Nykolas makes each pie as if it’s his first: making sure the “red tops” are consistent and the dough proofs long enough. We talked about the family history, and how he maintains consistency in a competitive market.
